My friend Tomas Cookman, the genio behind Nacional Records, recently told me he grew up in New York City’s Chinatown.

So of course, I had to ask: Did you know the chicken?

I didn’t mean mu shu chicken or chicken chow mein.

I meant the chicken of a Mott St. arcade, the chicken made semi-famous by journalist Calvin Trillin that would play tic-tac-toe against visitors for 50 cents – and win every match. Continue reading →