[Recently remembered from the archive, now that The Fat Cow has actually opened. Critic Besha Rodell asks, “Gordon Ramsay’s Fat Cow: Insult or Loving Bovine Tribute?” — D.B.S., Oct. 8, 2012]
Originally published on the LA Weekly food blog, Squid Ink.
We know this is a prime moment for carnivores, what with the nose-to-tail movement in full swing. But Gordon Ramsay’s new restaurant, slated to open at The Grove this summer, may be taking our meat-obsession a little too far. It’s called, drumroll please, The Fat Cow.This comes just as Mendocino Farms opens Blue Cow at California Plaza downtown. We assume that cow is trim. Because is it really healthy for cows to be fat? After all, consider the foie gras debate. At least “fat duck,” the name of a Michelin-starred restaurant in England, isn’t also a nasty remark directed almost exclusively at women.In recent years, many food and science writers such as Barbara Kingsolver (Animal, Vegetable, Miracle), Michael Pollan (The Omnivore’s Dilemma) and Jonathan Safran Foer (Eating Animals) have encouraged diners to become more familiar with food sources. To learn how dinner gets from farm to table. The Fat Cow’s black-and-white logo of a cute bovine creature, ears adorably perky, just seems to distance us further.
On to the menu. A press release says it will be “European-inspired,” and “include a rotating roaster, house cured meats, local cheeses, daily inspired dishes from the farmers market, as well as an in house pastry chef offering selections of classic American home desserts with a British pub flare.” Tournedos Rossini? Beef bourguignon? Steak tartare? We can only guess.
Ramsay will share kitchen duties with Andi Van Willigan, the sous chef from two of Ramsay’s TV shows — Hell’s Kitchen and Kitchen Nightmares. Van Willigan oversees his U.S. restaurants, including West Hollywood’s Gordon Ramsay at the London.